PART 2. A Guide to Skincare & Natural Products - Deep Dive Into The Chemicals Of Skincare
Taking care of our skin is important, but with so many products out there, it can be overwhelming to know what chemicals are actually safe to put on our precious epidermis. In Part 1, we discussed the steps of skincare, and explained different types of natural products and their uses. In Part 2, we learn more about the world of chemicals commonly used in these products, examine the reasons why they are included in formulations and hopefully have a better understanding of their safety levels.
First, we discuss where the sources of these ingredients might come from, whether they are of synthetic or natural origins. Then, we’ll jump into why they might be put in products. Understanding these chemicals’ roles can help demystify otherwise demonized ingredients, as well as empower us to make informed decisions about our skincare products.
Moonshine Face Serum with Violet & Rose
Natural vs Synthetic Ingredients
So, you are constantly bombarded with the idea of “natural”, “clean”, or even “green” ingredients. But what is the truth behind these terms?
Natural means its derived from ingredients found in nature. Synthetic means it is man/laboratory made. The biggest issue, the elephant in the room, is that these terms are highly misleading due to lack of strict regulation. Many natural ingredients can be both synthetically produced or mass produced through potentially questionable methods. Some common skincare ingredients might even be a harmful byproducts of other industries.
To illustrate this, let’s take mineral oil as an example. This popular ingredient is a colorless, odorless, and highly purified liquid produced when separating crude oil into oil and natural gas. After production, it’s purified and refined into cosmetic-grade quality, which is the bare minimum of “acceptable” level quality to be used in skincare. The sourcing of mineral oil makes its use generally controversial, as studies have shown that low grade mineral oil is outright carcinogenic. Let’s take another example: Vitamin C, also known as absorbic acid. There are two types of Vitamin Cs based on natural and synthetic origins; l-absorbic acid and d-absorbic acid respectively. Chemically, these two look absolutely identical, but differ on a molecular level. Some argue that these lab-made versions of nutrients suffice in place of the “original” versions. To answer that, let’s go a bit deeper. Vitamins found in real life food sources (fruits, vegetables, meat, dairy etc.) are not by themselves in isolated environments (unlike their synthetic counterparts), they are present with many other groups of nutrients. So many in fact, that it would be an incredibly slow, nearly impossible undertaking for modern science to isolate and interpret every single one, from every single food source. However, studies show that nutrients have better bioavailability when they are taken in the company of all the other groups of nutrients. This means our bodies can take up and utilize more of these nutrients if they come directly from the actual food sources rather than supplements. So, natural origins are better than synthetic? That is for everyone to decide for themselves. The logical conclusion is that it is best to choose natural foods and ingredients. Sounds easy enough, you think? Yet, natural foods and ingredients are often produced in an unsustainable manner. Let me give you another example: avocadoes. They are amazing for both food and skincare, but much of the world’s avocado production is responsible for severe deforestation across the globe.
Everything has a price in our late-stage capitalist and consumerist system. Especially natural ingredients.
As you can see from the examples above, both natural and synthetic ingredients can be problematic. Some synthetic ingredients are almost identical to naturally occurring ones. On the other hand, natural does not always mean what you you think it does. Hence, the best thing to do is to arm ourselves with as much knowledge as possible.
Emulsifiers & Surfactants
Emulsifiers and surfactants work by reducing the surface tension between two immiscible substances such as water and oil. Without these, hydrating creams, lotions and serums would quickly separate. These components allow for long-term and stable formulations, and in certain cases, deeper penetration of nutrients into the skin. On the other hand, many surfactants are also irritants or have other unwanted side effects. This is due to the fact that surfactants bind to and strip away the natural oils present on our skin’s surface. Many surfactants are used in soap and detergents, but they can also be found in certain lubricants, adhesives and fabric softeners. Beyond skincare and household use, some are also used in the food industry.
Emollient/Occlusives/Humectants
There is only slight differences in the above terms. They are all used for their soothing and moisturizing effects on the skin. An emollient is a type of ingredient that is used to help restore the barrier of the skin and improve its texture. Occlusives work by forming a protective layer over the skin, trapping moisture and preventing water loss. Humectants attract and retain water. These ingredients help to keep the skin hydrated, soft, and supple. They can also have negative side effects, such as allergic reactions, and clogged pores and hair follicles. Emollients come in various forms, including oils, butters, waxes, and silicones.
Thickeners/Stabilizers
Thickeners and stabilizers are chemicals commonly used to help improve a product’s texture, thickness, viscosity, spreadability, stability, and overall performance. They serve different functions but are often be used in combination to achieve the desired results. Generally, they make products last longer, easier to apply and more pleasant to use. Conversely, some thickeners can cause cancer and other disorders. These include gums, polysaccharides, and polymers such as xanthan gum, carbomer & acrylates and other things like citric acid and tocopherols.
Preservatives
Preservatives prevent the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria, fungi, and mold. They are important ingredients in skincare and cosmetic products, as they help to ensure their safety, efficacy, and shelf-life. Without preservatives, these products can become contaminated with microorganisms, which can pose serious health and safety risks to the user. This is particularly true for products that contain water or other moisture-rich ingredients, which can provide an ideal environment for microbial growth. This is also the key reason why preservatives are some of the most potent and dangerous chemicals in skincare. Water is key to the growth of life, and suppressing this process proves to be quite difficult. Many studies show that some frequently used preservatives can cause a host of inflammatory, metabolic, developmental, hormonal and neurological disorders. Some common preservatives include aldehydes, isothiazolinones, glycol ethers, organic acids, and parabens such as propyls, butyls, phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, methylisothiazolinone, benzoic acid, sorbic acid and so on.
Fun fact! Some creators/companies have found promising ways around the use of preservatives called hurdle systems. These highly efficient multilayered systems utilize natural antimicrobial compounds, each of which target different groups of microbes that work together to minimize the growth of harmful spores. These technologies might include the use essential oils, antioxidants, competitive microorganisms, or temperature and PH control.
Fragrance & Color
Have you noticed that every single product label you ever read includes fragrance? While fragrances can enhance the sensory experience of using a product, they can also be controversial. Fragrances have significant potential to cause skin irritation, allergies and other adverse reactions, particularly for those with sensitive or allergy-prone skin. Serious concerns arise from the fact that “fragrance” is an umbrella term that covers hundreds of different chemicals, many of which are not required to be listed specifically on the product label. This makes it difficult for consumers to discern what chemical is being included in the product.
Chemicals To Avoid
It is impossible to research and list every single ingredient that may cause harm, but there are several that are widely understood as being dangerous. Below is a constantly updated, non-exhaustive list that I personally steer away from using in my own skincare or including in my products.
Parabens
THERE ARE HUNDREDS! Generally will contain ethyl, methyl, propyl, 4-hydroxy, benzoic acid, benzoate, paraben, phenol or something similar as well as many others in the name.
Synthetic preservatives that are linked to hormone disruption and breast cancer.
Phthalates
Often used as solvents and plasticizers in skincare products. Linked to reproductive and developmental toxicity.
Formaldehyde releasers
Bronopol, DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternium-15
Linked to cancer and skin irritation.
SLS & SLES
Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate
Surfactants causing skin irritation, dryness, and allergic reactions.
Sulphates
Synthetic fragrances/perfume & colors
Mineral oil/Petroleum jelly
parrafin, petrolatum, cera microcristallina, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, ceresine isoparaffin, synthetic wax
Silicone
Aluminum and other heavy metals
Talc
Titanium dioxide
Coal Tar Dyes
Brain toxin, human carcinogen. Find by 5 digit Color Index (CI) number or by FD&C/D&C name and number
UV/Sunblockers
oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octinoxate, homosalate, PABAs
Plastic microbeads
polyethylene (PE), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), nylon (PA), polypropylene (PP), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA)
Harmful for both the skin (gets stuck in pores) as well as marine wildlife.
Polyethylene glycol (PEGs)
poly(ethylene oxide), poly(oxyethylene)
There are HUNDREDS!
Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) & Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)
Triclosan
hydroxy diphenyl ether
An antibacterial agent linked to hormone disruption and the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria.
Hydroquinone
A skin-lightening ingredient linked to cancer and skin irritation.
Ethanolamines
monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA)
Emulsifiers and potential allergens.
Retinyl palmitate
A form of vitamin A (Retinol) that can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and cause skin damage.
